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This started as a 1993 Diamondback Ascent EX rigid mountain bike so the frame and forks are 100% True Temper AVR double-butted 4130 cromoly. STEEL IS REAL ! The frame measures 17" from center of the bottom bracket spindle to the top of the seat tube with a top tube stand-over height of 29". I would say the ideal rider-height range for this bike would be 5'6" to 5'10". That is an appropriate range for "fit", that said I own and ride many bikes that do not "fit" me in the traditional sense so to a reasonable extent, FITMENT is up to each individual rider. Experienced/certified static and dynamic fit specialists can make more precise recommendations but for the recreational rider who is not spending hours in the saddle or trying to push the limits of their fitness this bike may very well be real-world rideable for a wider height range. After all, it's the good 'ol "YOU" S of A so it's ultimately up to you. This build came together very well and I have added many pieces of "flair" such as the Pikachu USB cable bite figures on the valve stems, the cling-on Pikachu figures on the brake cables, the Pikachu and PokéBall luggage tags, many many fun Pikachu decals, a Japan exclusive Pikachu water bottle, a foil Pikachu trading card (in a soft slider and a hard top-loader), a Connecticut bicycle license plate "KANTO" and a PokéBall Bluetooth speaker in the second water bottle cage on the seat tube. The custom Pikachu padset was made by my mom and I (COVID shut-in project) Take a close look at all the pictures as there are many fun touches on this bike. The bottom bracket is a silky-smooth sealed cartridge Shimano unit with Deore HollowTech crank arms that measure 170mm. The alloy Wellgo B102 platforms spin excellent ! The front ring is a Shimano 42t that came off of a triple-ring setup so it IS NOT a narrow-wide chainring and if you TRY to get it to drop the chain you will succeed as this is a 1x setup WITHOUT a clutch-equipped rear derailleur. There is a Deore 9-speed rapid-fire pod that controls the shifting that was brand new when installed. The rear mech on this build is a VERY CLEAN Mega 9 Deore that was brand new when installed as was the SRAM PC870 chain and 34/11 cassette. I would guess that the bike has approximately 12 to 15 miles on it as I rode it a few times on Pokémon Go community days but never put any real time on it. The wheelset is comprised of 32h high flange Shimano Deore Disc hubs laced 3-cross with 14g stainless DT Champion spokes to SUN RhynoLite double-wall hoops. They are wrapped in like-new Diamondback street tires that are 26x1.75" so they have some meat to handle rough pavement and groomed trails but do not feel "lazy" at all. When kept at 60 to 65 psi they feel crisp and nimble on asphalt and concrete surfaces. The headset was a NOS sealed cartridge Shimano Deore LX 1 1/8" threaded unit and I used a 25.4mm quill adapter to accommodate the Pr1mo BMX threadless top-loader stem. I also replaced the og hardware with Shadow Conspiracy hollow bolts. The handlebars are S&M SLAM Cruiser bars that are uncut and measure 27.5" wide with a 5.5" rise. I used NOS Odyssey Gedda 2 grips with Shimano M-System Servo-Wave brake levers to control the Shimano XTR brakes. The fronts are Shimano first gen XTR BR-M950 V-brakes and the rear has a very clean set of BR-M900 XTR cantilevers sporting the original XTR pads AND XTR cable yoke. A mid-school Haro seat clamp holds the vintage USA-MADE ControlTech seat post in place and the logo decals are in excellent condition on it as is the "made in USA" flag sticker in the rear. I installed a new old stock pair of ControlTech quick release skewers also and the bike hasn't been ridden since. I will include the og ControlTech package that can be seen in the pictures. Thank you for reading the details 👋
I AM NOT A COVID RESELLER !
There are many people who are reselling used bicycles now because they see an opportunity to take advantage of consumers who may not be well educated on bicycles. Many honest folks are simply looking to buy used bicycles for themselves or their families for light recreational use without spending 500+ per bike. COVID has made anyone with a garden hose and the ability to copy/paste a "bicycle mechanic". I AM NOT THAT PERSON ... my name is Steve and you know me from the original Alternative Spoke bicycle shop here in Willington, CT from 25 years ago. You know me from a 10+ year tour at The Sports Authority in Manchester, CT as the bicycle/ski & snowboard technician and racquet stringer. Most recently you know me from a 7+ year run (ended in 2019 season) at a prominent sporting goods retailer in Enfield, CT that rhymes with mick's sorting hoods. I will never be presumptuous enough to call myself an "expert" ... I am learning all the time and nobody knows everything. You can count on me giving you my honest opinion and if something is outside my knowledge base or skill set I will simply tell you that. I will not blow smoke up your rear triangle or be disingenuous because I want to live in a world where everyone operates/negotiates on a good-faith basis. That sounds naive as I read it to myself but I don't care. All I ask is that you come at me with respect. Everything in life is negotiable and anyone who says otherwise is lying to themselves. I will answer questions or give an opinion if I can and I do my very best to accurately represent each bicycle or component that I list.
Bicycle blue book dot com is a resource HOWEVER in many instances it is not an accurate reflection of used bicycle value. If you're shopping for a bicycle new or used do a bit of reading and call/visit a local bicycle shop and ask about service costs. Ask about entry-level pricing on new bicycles. Ask real bike people their opinions on component manufacturers (then and now) and what has taken place in the supply chain and how reputable companies have outsourced their manufacturing. Ask about tire selection/contact patch and different wheel sizes. Also know that there are different types of "disc brakes". There are full hydraulic systems, cable-actuated (mechanical) systems and systems that have fluid-filled calipers which use a physical cable to actuate the piston/pistons. In certain instances a well setup rim brake (V-brake or cantilever) can produce as much or more stopping power than a cable-actuated disc brake system. If a bike doesn't say "Trek" on the down tube IT CAN STILL BE a very good quality ride hahaha.
If you meet someone from marketplace or CL to look at a used bike ask questions and always test ride the bike. If you're unsure of who you are meeting and a bit uncomfortable then suggest a Police Station for a meet. I continue to be shocked at how many people buy used bicycles and literally nnnnever test ride them before purchase. In my experience, if a seller doesn't volunteer information about the bike when you go to look at it then IT MAY BE because the bike has an issue (big or small) that the seller is banking on you not noticing in the 5-10 minutes you are checking the bike out. Ask questions of the seller and be prepared to be underwhelmed at the physical appearance of the bike. Many times bicycles will photograph much better than they look in person. That said, there are many unscrupulous sellers who offer bikes that appear excellent cosmetically but are not mechanically sound. RIDE THE BIKE before purchasing !
I am selling used bicycles in AS-IS condition however I do not post a complete bike unless I am comfortable with it mechanically and the service I have performed on it. There will be instances where the price-point of a used bicycle is such that it doesn't make sense to spend a large amount to completely rebuild/overhaul that bike and the listing price will reflect that. When I list any bicycle that has a mechanical issue that I haven't fixed it will be CLEARLY STATED in the listing. I am also willing to drive a short range to meet folks unless scheduling will not accommodate it. HONESTY IS THE BEST POLICY and I don't care how CORNY that sounds. I want people out riding bikes and enjoying them safely ! Thank you for reading